Superfine
"I Look Good"- Chalie Boy
How did y’all like the Met Gala this year? I thought it was more exciting than some years past because the theme was pretty spicy and I think we were all curious how the whites would approach “Tailoring Black Style.” No blackface, so I’d say we came through mostly ok! Deriving as always from the Costume Institute’s Spring exhibition, this year’s theme was an exploration of Black dandyism— a difficult-to-define thing that most attendees didn’t seem to really understand, but I think they at least understood it better than they understood camp in 2019. What a debacle that was.
The exhibition itself was inspired by cultural historian Monica L Miller’s book Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. It’s really exciting scholarship— the first comprehensive study of Black dandyism and thus the first attempting to articulate what exactly Black dandyism consists in. There are a few quotes that exemplify to me Miller’s line of thinking and provide some clarity into how we can understand the term. Miller writes, “The dandy’s allure emanates from the fact that the figure is both constructed and performative— a dandy is a kind of embodied, animated sign system that deconstructs given and normative categories of identity (elite, white, masculine, heterosexual, patriotic) and reperforms them in a manner more in keeping with his often avant-garde visions of society and self.” Now, right up top we know that dandyism is performative; it is a way to deconstruct and reformulate traditionally “desirable” identity markers, such as whiteness and heterosexuality. In other words, it’s the remix, but you didn’t clear the sample. Miller further notes, “Disidentification [that is, rejecting those desirable identities] in the dandy's hands (or closet) exposes the hybridity, syncretism, mixedness of all people, deconstructs race and blackness, sex, gender, and class into moments of productive ambivalence, agency, and capitulation.” Thus, dandyism points up the lie that any of these identities are actually discrete, and in this way dandyism can be implemented as a method of assimilation or rebellion depending on the context. And although its roots lie in the “dandyfied” black servants of 18th c. England, the ways in which Black folks of the Atlantic Diaspora have engaged in dandyism in the four centuries since then have been self-fashioned and for a plethora of purposes. This is all very rich soil from which to pull for an exhibition, let alone a gala, whether or not it seems like people took a thought to the meaning behind it all!
Alright, enough about all the real intellectual work underpinning this affair. I wanna look at some looks, but I’ll be upfront that I don’t like to dwell on the negative in things like this. It feels mean-spirited because I am a Pollyanna. I have a few nasty-ish comments that I will get out of the way up top and then we can start the lovefest below.
NOT TO BE A BITCH, BUT …
Where are your pants, Haley Bieber, Sabrina Carpenter, Doja Cat, Amelia Gray, Hallie Bailey, Cynthia Erivo, Simone Biles, and Helen Lasichanh?
Riverboat gambler vibes: Kylie Jenner, FKA Twigs, Angèle, Jodie Turner-Smith, Gina Alice Redlinger
Took a wrong turn on the way to the Kentucky Derby: Monica Barbaro, Priyanka Chopra, Kerry Washington
It’s giving cater waiter: Hunter Schafer, Tyson Beckford
Jessica McClintock ‘80s prom cosplay: Lana Del Rey
Ok, onto the good stuff!!!
BEST IN SHOW
This year’s Met Gala co-chair and truly Black dandy extraordinaire, Colman Domingo, hit it out of the park in this Valentino. The man can WEAR a suit. My personal favorite touch is the white vest paired with cream pinstriped shirt. White & cream! Pure class, my friends!
Fellow Met Gala co-chair and Formula One driver, Lewis Hamilton, looks chic as hell in this off-white suit and beret from young Black designer Grace Wales Bonner. I will say I was surprised how few people worked with Black designers this year, given the theme. In fact, I find it downright bizarre, to be honest! (Pharrell as Creative Director at Vuitton BARELY counts!!!!!!) Anyway, Hamilton is a clotheshorse who always looks fucking great and every touch here is so thoughtful, right down to the cowrie shells at his side.
Bryan Tyree Henry’s gorgeous ruby suit and accompanying lush wrap is a sublime honoring of the man whose absence felt like a gaping hole in this entire event, that legendary arbiter of Black fashion, André Leon Talley. Very nicely done, Mr. Henry!
Damson Idris is fine as hell, and I will be the first to admit that is a factor, BUT I also love seeing someone kill the ‘70s retro suit with those crisp traveler’s creases on the pants, the length of the jacket, etc. My personal preference for this particular era of men’s fashion is greatly satisfied by seeing someone nail every aspect of the look. And judging from the expression on his disgustingly handsome face, he knows it!
If it weren’t for Zendaya, Joey King would be taking it, sorry to say. This is menswear on a woman done right. The green suit, mixed prints, and soft curls— every single thing is clutch. Unexpected and utterly unlike anything else on that carpet, Miu Miu came out of left field and shut the shit down!
Baller Angel Reese looks DIVINE (no pun intended, ugh) in my man Thom Browne. Deconstructing the suit into this two piece is heavenly (again, not punning!)— the dark lip and slick, finger-curled hair complete the look to perfection. Her stylist deserves a raise because oof, OOF!
The People’s Princess. Miss Zendaya is my look of the night. I saw a couple other ladies in white suits and they couldn’t hold a candle to this Vuitton. Never ceases to amaze how much she wears these clothes and they never, ever wear her— it’s a gift! Plus, the fucking hat. Again, saw many hats, none came close to the effortless swag exuded in this one pic. Dandyism, indeed!
SECOND-TIER STUNNERS
One of the most beautiful women on planet earth, Adut Akech nearly made me swoon in this pink and crystal number. The feathers! Those heels! But above all, the outsized swarovski-covered feather collar. Have you ever seen anything more decadent in your life? Christ.
Calling back to Damson Idris, my main man Leon Bridges in this Nicholas Daley harkens to a time of caddies and funky-ass bass lines. The stripes are key. The flares are key. The accessories are taking it into the stratosphere—dig those shades and leather driving gloves— HOTT. Almost as hot as his newest shit— have you listened yet?
Indian musical artist Diljit Dosanjh isn’t exactly speaking to Black dandyism, sure, but the man is undeniably showing out. I love every single thing that’s happening here, from the fabric to the cape to the jewelry. And I’m not just saying that because I had this song on repeat for nearly the entirety of 2020. If anything, that would be a mark against him because I truly could not stop listening to it. What can I say, handclaps are my kryptonite.
Usher’s wife Jennifer Goicoechea Raymond looks fucking great!! This thing fits like a glove! There’s a lot going on, but it’s not too much? That’s rare to pull off. The sash! The big brooch thing! What fun!
Despite disliking the thin train a lot and feeling like there’s an American flag thing going on, I must give props to Harbison Studio on Mindy Kaling’s look this year. Mostly it’s the cut and fit— seeing something well-made is a joy in itself. See? I can acknowledge something is good even if I don’t like the person wearing it. Magnanimity, thy name is Anna.
Madonna has always looked great in menswear, and she’s always played with androgyny in a very sexy way. That is to say, nothing about this is new for her, and happy to say, she’s still got it! I like how long the jacket is. I like how big the pants are— it’s a fun twist for me, this particular fit. I love the monochrome. She just looks good as hell. It’s a nice reminder that when this woman tones it down it doesn’t dim her light at all.
I looooove this suit on Pusha. The color is so, so good. The fit is aces. And those little crystals of snow dusting the shoulders— iykyk. It’s a pleasure to see a legend looking sharp and happy at an event like this. He has long lived the essence of self-fashioning that is the bedrock of Black dandyism and his presence feels like an acknowledgement of a certain demographic that’s often ignored in these spaces despite how seriously they take their presentation and their influence on the wider culture.
Wicked costume designer and hot commodity, Paul Tazewell, epitomizes Black dandy splendor in a Thom Browne skirt— I never see people in these and they are some of my favorite pieces in contemporary fashion. Who’s doing it like Mr. Browne?? These two are a match made in heaven and I love all of this. How to make understated subversive— that’s a genius move.
Ngl, it’s mostly just how well the suit fits. In a world of ill-fitting menswear, it doesn’t take a lot to please me. I’ve never fitted a man in a suit before, but legitimately, how fucking hard can it be???? Callum looks great in this suit, which is mostly kinda ho-hum. But it fits!
Another in the “but it fits!” category. Very handsome nepo baby Malcolm Washington looks great in his suit! He went with Vuitton like Callum above, which is boring, but whatever, I guess. I like his little bag, though. A cute touch!
I don’t quite know what to make of Suki Waterhouse who seems so nondescript but whose music I have mildly liked when I’ve heard it? This dress isn’t doing a lot, but it’s doing it well on her. Michael Kors makes forgettable yet serviceable clothes and they tend to look bangin on good-looking people and that’s what’s happening here. She styled it well and I have no complaints. Not the ringingest of endorsements maybe, but I assure you, this is actually high praise.
Model Liu Wen in velvet Burberry is a dream. That color! The lines! The shoes! Nailed it nailed it nailed it. This is tailoring. This is dandyism! Is she single?
I DON’T LIKE IT BUT I RESPECT IT
Patriots’ wide receiver Stefon Diggs’ draped fur and shiny red shoes call to mind the dandies of the Harlem Renaissance, which is great! I still don’t like how it looks, though.
Hottest rapper in the game Doechii stayed true to herself in this get-up for which I have to salute her. Also, I like the color of that ascot. But truly the whole thing is not pleasing, though mostly I blame Pharrell.
A lot of people have said designer Jessica Kayll misunderstood the assignment with her floral whatever this is, but honestly, who tf cares! At least she’s not boring! The bag and shoes are cute! But also, mostly it’s bad and I don’t like how it looks.
I don’t know this man, I’m gleaning he’s a model/actor? But I love whatever’s happening here simply from a flamboyance aspect. Hugo Boss is a nice pull and the silver is fancy, the heart-shaped vest thingy, the exaggeratedly wide shoulders, the hat. Yes! Have fun with it! But also, I don’t like how it looks.
I very much respect Janelle Monáe’s commitment to looking like a robot (except that one weird couple of months where she was showing her tits a lot which I also very much respect) and I love Thom Browne with my whole heart, but the bowler and monocle are veering too far into Mr. Monopoly territory and thus I must say, I don’t like how it looks.
I don’t have a lot to say about actress Myha’la’s dress here other than that I respect it, but I do not like it. The Timbs are dope, though.
There’s something about Tessa Thompson’s thing here that is also swerving into Mr. Monopoly’s lane— it’s prob the hat, but regardless I don’t love it. I might like the whole thing more (because I do like the proportions!) if it were a better fit. The waist needs brought in. Just my two cents! Prabal Gurung didn’t ask me, though.
MAYBE CONTROVERSIAL BUT I LOVE IT
I quite enjoy Kap’s ensemble, but I’m really here for his wife Nessa’s capelet. I have long been a fan of the Moncler puffer collection and this is absolutely perfect to the night’s theme! I will not be elaborating, but it is!
I remember liking these Bishme Cromartie pieces when I saw them on the runway, and this gown fits entertainment reporter Zuri Hall like a dream. Not to get too heady, but the structure of the bodice positioning the body seemingly “behind” the garment itself functions as an embodiment of the inherent performativity in Black dandyism and I love that!
Models tend to play it safe at events like this so it’s really fun to see Imaan Hammam swing for the fences. Polish designer Magda Butrym has reconceptualized the traditional zoot suit here as a jumpsuit with ultra feminine curves— inspired, surprising, so fun!
Everything about this Zac Posen is doing the most in the very best way. Tight bodice, ballooning pleated slacks with exaggerated cuffs and equally voluminous sheer sleeves. The silhouette is a delight and playing those three fabric textures off each other is just chef’s kiss.
I love Justice Smith so much, and I love this foppish little Valentino set— a great fit, tasty palette, and topping off the little tied scarf collar with a marcelled coif hits all the right notes for the evening’s theme. This feels very grounded in Miller’s work, purposeful or not.
IS IT GOOD OR IS HE JUST HOT?
The one thing Tom Ford is gonna do is make it look like a dude just got done fuckin, and he has achieved that here with UK rapper Stormzy. Man looks good enough to eat.
EXCUSE ME?!
Pharrell will have to answer for a multitude of sins (mostly financial, from what I can gather) in heaven, but he has added another to the list here when he put Rosa Parks’ face on a pair of lace panties. SIR. Absolutely not.
And there you have it! I didn’t talk about a lot of things like how much A$AP Rocky looked like he just wandered in off the street, how meh Rihanna looked (preggo belly is cute, tho, obvi), how just boring so much of it was or why did so many people look like old-timey villains? It was like an old-timey bank robber, riverboat gambler, Mr. Monopoly convention. People are so weird! Can’t wait to see what next year will bring! Hopefully something along the lines of what to wear to an apocalypse … That could be useful right about now.
k love u bye
EDIT:
I have to pop in and add some very important things I missed:
#1 Tom Hardy in a durag hahahahaha
#2 Apologies to Janelle Monáe for accusing her of no longer showing her tiddies on main. Ms. Monopoly, HellO
#3 AND MOST IMPORTANT: Shah Rukh Khan was there!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! And he looked cool as shit, no surprises. Top ten favorite humans. Wonderful, perfect, great. Some of the reporters didn’t know who he was which is probably why I didn’t see him in any coverage but which is also flabbergasting— he is literally one of the most famous people on the planet. A living legend! One of the last movie stars we have!! It’s him, Tommy Cruise, and Tony Leung Chiu-wai. That’s it!
